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I
awoke this morning in a miserable mood and soaked in sweat. Although today’s
main objective was to get to Milwaukee my first concern was find a shower or
something I could swim in to wash the filth off me. After a half-hour’s
drive east of Madison I stopped at a truck stop and found sweet relief.
Entering
Milwaukee was a spectacular site to see. Nestled in a valley along what was
once a river (now a canal) was dozens of brick smokestacks and factories.
All of this was far too much for me and I could not tell you how many times
a horn was directed at my erratic driving. Urban revitalization had reared
its head and many buildings that I imagine were once vacant and abandoned
were now brimming with activity. One place in particular was the Third Ward
which in many ways was similar to Winnipeg’s Exchange District. Both are
undergoing revitalization and both were warehouse districts but now filled
with the creative class. However the Third Ward has been more successful at
creating a street scene with its large market and its attempt to create a
mixed use neighbourhood.
Near the Third
Ward were two abandoned buildings, one a boring building that was easy to
forget (save for its bizarrely clean floors) and a mill that still contained
quite a few motors and vents. Unfortunately I was kicked out of the mill by
the owner of the Marina next door so I turned my attention to Pabst.
The main reason
why I came to Milwaukee was to see the massive Pabst complex and I was glad
that I made the decision to see it. Entry into the complex was easy although
entry into the buildings was quite the opposite. A cop van was parked inside
the complex and frequently drove around the area. Roof top entries were
quite out of the question seeing how it was daylight and two major traffic
arteries courted the brewery. I assumed that the concrete silos would lead
to other buildings via a tunnel or at least a conveyor and so I entered the
silos. Unfortunately there was no tunnel or conveyor (that I found) so I
searched for another way into the complex.
I then set my
sights on the church which had an entry point that required the skills for
which I am now known for. Once inside the church I attempted to find some
sort of doorway that would lead to the other buildings but found nothing.
Dejected I decided to take some flash photos of the interior and try my luck
at one of the buildings that had some quite difficult and visible entry
points.
As I began to
climb up to the broken window I saw a police van pass through an
intersection and then heard its tires trying to stop on the gravel like
pavement. With that sound I was running back to car that unfortunately was
across the freeway. Much of the run involved simply of flying past people,
cars and jumping fences but eventually I did make it to my car and decided
to further explore the city.
It
did not take me long to find another building to explore but unfortunately a
large chunk of it was missing due to a wrecking ball. The Milwaukee Center
for Independent Living (I think that’s what its name was) closed recently
after spending a heap load of money converting an apartment block and
factory in a functional social center. There was quite a bit of leftovers in
the old factory portion but the apartment block was stripped down to the
bare concrete in many places. The buildings were interesting in their own
right but my eyes turned to the abandoned leather factory just a stone’s
throw from the center.
I had spotted some entry points from the roof of the Center for Independence
and from the road so all I had to worry about was getting past the fence.
The problem was that the leather factory lay on a busy arterial street and
the only feasible way to get over the fence was on the street. With every
passing minute my impatience grew and after five minutes of sitting I was
ready to say “Screw it,” and jump the fence amid the heavy flow of cars.
However lady luck reared her head and a break in traffic was blessed upon
me. With a quick jump I was inside the fence and walked into a red bricked
building.
Once inside, a
large stockpile of chemicals in “containers” burned my throat and made my
eyes water. Despite this grand irritation I pressed on only to find that
there was little, if any equipment left on the main floor. What was left was
a large assortment of chemicals and random machine parts. The next three
floors consist mainly of large open spaces with machinery, large carts and
rickety flooring. One of the more interesting sections was the employee
locker and bathrooms where portions of the roof were missing and created the
impression that fluorescent lights were still in use.
It was on the
fifth floor however where things began to get interesting. From the
stairwell on the south side of the building two large hoods extended for
half of the building. Then past the two hoods lay an assortment of various
and kick ass machinery whose exact purpose was unknown to me. The highlight
of the fifth and final floor was the giant 15 foot wooden wheel near the
center of the building. Seeing this giant wooden wheel brought back memories
of the gargantuan engine wheel in Manitoba Cold Storage and I could not help
but sit down and reminisce of the times I had in the cold storage building.
The sun was beginning to set so I thought it would be best to call it a day
and head south for Chicago. I must confess that I chose the right time of
the day to enter into Chicagoland. As I came down from the highlands and
entered the valley where Chicago was built upon the skyscrapers of the loop
gracefully stood against a deep blue horizon. In this awe I also felt an
overwhelming feeling of insignificance and vulnerability, especially in the
loop where a mass of people navigated their way through a concrete jungle.
Eventually I found my hostel and after an hour and a half of looking for a
parking spot I retreated to my bed and waited for sleep to kick in.
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